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"A fascinating history of…[a craft] that preceded and made possible civilization itself." ―New York Times Book Review
New discoveries about the textile arts reveal women's unexpectedly influential role in ancient societies.
Twenty thousand years ago, women were making and wearing the first clothing created from spun fibers. In fact, right up to the Industrial Revolution the fiber arts were an enormous economic force, belonging primarily to women.
Despite the great toil required in making cloth and clothing, most books on ancient history and economics have no information on them. Much of this gap results from the extreme perishability of what women produced, but it seems clear that until now descriptions of prehistoric and early historic cultures have omitted virtually half the picture.
Elizabeth Wayland Barber has drawn from data gathered by the most sophisticated new archaeological methods―methods she herself helped to fashion. In a "brilliantly original book" (Katha Pollitt, Washington Post Book World), she argues that women were a powerful economic force in the ancient world, with their own industry: fabric.
- Sales Rank: #272641 in Books
- Brand: Barber, Elizabeth Wayland
- Published on: 1996
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.30" h x 1.00" w x 5.50" l, .65 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 336 pages
Features
- fiber arts
- textiles
- archeology
- bronze age
- clothing
From Publishers Weekly
While men dominated early agriculture, women for millennia took primary responsibility for sewing, weaving textiles and making clothing. In this beautifully illustrated study, Barber ( Prehistoric Textiles ) retrieves an important chapter in the history of civilization by drawing on archeological evidence, ancient texts, myths and linguistics to reconstruct women's paramount role in the fiber arts until the start of the late Bronze Age, about 1500 B.C., when, Barber observes, the advent of commercial textiles brought men to the looms. In prehistoric Europe, women invented elaborate textiles with complex designs; women of ancient Anatolia ran cloth-making establishments. Barber begins her saga with the description of a Paleolithic "Venus figure" that dates from about 20,000 B.C. and is carved wearing a skirt woven of loose strings. Ranging from Egypt to Greece to Sumatra, covering the period from 20,000-500 B.C., Barber illuminates women's changing social status as makers of cloth and clothing.
Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Library Journal
In this age of ready-to-wear clothing and shopping malls, we sometimes forget that for the first 20,000 years of human existence, all textiles-from everyday clothing to ship's sails-were made by women (and sometimes men) who used a hand spindle to spin threads and a loom to weave the threads into cloth. As an archaeologist and a knowledgeable weaver capable of reproducing the cloth remnants she is studying, Barber is ideally qualified to investigate early textile production and its relation to women's changing roles in ancient societies. Here she reconstructs the history of textiles (primarily in Europe and the Near East), based on the hard evidence of archaeology, geology, art, and ancient texts. Her approach is scholarly yet presupposes no practical knowledge of textile production on the part of the reader. Highly recommended for academic and larger public libraries.
Janice Zlendich, California State Univ. Lib., Fullerton
Copyright 1994 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Kirkus Reviews
Employing diverse, thorough methodologies and research sources, the author of Prehistoric Textiles (not reviewed) traces the roles of women and cloth through 20,000 years of history. Prehistoric women primarily worked with food and clothing, neither likely to survive the elements, and male historians traditionally felt little need or desire to write about cloth and textiles; thus, much of women's work history has been lost, and we are left with few details for reconstruction. However, Barber's innovative research found that ``data for ancient textiles lay everywhere, waiting to be picked up.'' By reproducing remnants of ancient cloth and garments, she also reproduced women's actual labor, which often required hours upon hours of tedious, painstaking work. Her justification for the assumption of female responsibility for cloth rests on their childbearing and -rearing duties. Women needed to stay close to home, and they required work compatible with youngsters running around--labor that could be interrupted when necessary. According to Barber, women held important positions in society as the primary producers of clothing for millennia, even into the age of emerging capitalist economies. She also deduces, from the patterns and designs of ancient material, that clothing for both sexes served as a visual means to communicate such information as fertility and marital status. (For example, many skirt remnants hold designs assumed to follow the shape of and emphasize the pubic bone.) Although this seems a logical conclusion, there's not really any empirical evidence for it. An important contribution, in terms of both historical material and interpretation, to the study of women's work. -- Copyright ©1994, Kirkus Associates, LP. All rights reserved.
Most helpful customer reviews
16 of 16 people found the following review helpful.
Illuminates the crucial role of "women's work" in the development of settled human communities
By Cynthia Cook
I enjoyed this book tremendously. At once scholarly and accessible, the book illuminates the lives of women in the Neolithic by creative and multidisciplinary means. A wonderful example of feminist scholarship (although I don't know what the author would make of that description!), she finds valuable information in discarded shreds of cloth, overlooked details in myths, and personal knowledge of the crafts being studied. The lives of these women come vividly to life, as well as their essential role in the development of settled communities. Her impressive breadth of knowledge allows her to support her arguments with archeological, linguistic, ethnographic evidence and more. A tremendous contribution to our understanding of human cultural development - the importance of string, for example - and the primary role of women in that development
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
This is a fantastic well written book detailing the early history of textiles ...
By Teresa
I have the hard back copy first edition and I wanted a portable version so I purchased it for my Kindle and smartphones. This is a fantastic well written book detailing the early history of textiles and their role in history. Its interesting to read and easy to understand. This book isn't just for women but for everyone as it gives you a great understanding into the labor intensive process of early textile production.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
The best anthropology book ever
By Omega Cat
This is a wonderful book about the history of textiles. After reading this, history will never be the same. For thousands of years, an overwhelming portion of human labor revolved around textiles. Who knew? Anyone interested in anthropology, archeology, women, or clothes will love this. It is one of those books that you can never forget.
See all 91 customer reviews...
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